2015 Ktm Superduke Service Manual
I`m on the fence with stainless steel filters, It's not that I doubt their ability to filter down to low microns and I love the idea they offer better flow rates. What I`m put off with is that unless you use a ultrasonic cleaning method you will not properly clean them, effectively you are putting a dirty filter back in. The Scotts instructions are to just flush them with a solvent or even washing detergent. My question would be while giving the filter a good wash in a bucket of turps for example you have micro particles floating around in the solution and if you happen to move your finger from the filter outlet and these wash into the filter then you get the contaminates fed straight to a cam or crank bearing Even if a ultrasonic cleaning method was used you would still have the same issue.
I think regular oil changes and the use of quality oil with paper filters is good enough, however happy to be proven wrong. Lc4 wrote:I`m on the fence with stainless steel filters, It's not that I doubt their ability to filter down to low microns and I love the idea they offer better flow rates. What I`m put off with is that unless you use a ultrasonic cleaning method you will not properly clean them, effectively you are putting a dirty filter back in. The Scotts instructions are to just flush them with a solvent or even washing detergent. My question would be while giving the filter a good wash in a bucket of turps for example you have micro particles floating around in the solution and if you happen to move your finger from the filter outlet and these wash into the filter then you get the contaminates fed straight to a cam or crank bearing Even if a ultrasonic cleaning method was used you would still have the same issue. I think regular oil changes and the use of quality oil with paper filters is good enough, however happy to be proven wrong. Collapsed oil filter and oil starvation in parts of the engine.
The risk me not rinsing the filter properly and have a microscopic particle going round the engine (which happens anyway). Mmm hard decision! Stainless filter it is then. I have seen engines that don't have a paper filter as such, just a device made out of plates that would either trap stuff on the outside of the stacked plates or grind the other bits down in between the plates.
Average lifespan of that engine on mediocre mineral oil you ask, about 500 k km's! Clean the stainless filter in terps as you mention, blow clean and dry with an air hose, job done! Lc4 wrote:I`m on the fence with stainless steel filters, It's not that I doubt their ability to filter down to low microns and I love the idea they offer better flow rates. What I`m put off with is that unless you use a ultrasonic cleaning method you will not properly clean them, effectively you are putting a dirty filter back in.
The Scotts instructions are to just flush them with a solvent or even washing detergent. My question would be while giving the filter a good wash in a bucket of turps for example you have micro particles floating around in the solution and if you happen to move your finger from the filter outlet and these wash into the filter then you get the contaminates fed straight to a cam or crank bearing Even if a ultrasonic cleaning method was used you would still have the same issue. I think regular oil changes and the use of quality oil with paper filters is good enough, however happy to be proven wrong. Collapsed oil filter and oil starvation in parts of the engine. The risk me not rinsing the filter properly and have a microscopic particle going round the engine (which happens anyway).
Mmm hard decision! Stainless filter it is then. I have seen engines that don't have a paper filter as such, just a device made out of plates that would either trap stuff on the outside of the stacked plates or grind the other bits down in between the plates. Average lifespan of that engine on mediocre mineral oil you ask, about 500 k km's! Clean the stainless filter in terps as you mention, blow clean and dry with an air hose, job done! No problem How about a review when your filter turns up? Dbroaddu wrote:If that's the case, how do we decide if the bypass valve is bad, or if the fault lies with the filter.
I could take it in and have the oil pressure tested per the shop manual, however Murphy's law would dictate that the suspect bypass valve wouldn't malfunction then. Only later on during a ride. Should I ride it around for a couple hundred miles on the on the Scotts filter, and then inspect it, and see if it's 'pulling' in on itself??? The fault is within the filter. It is a know fact for a while and happened a fair bit on the dirtbikes too despite the fact the filter is shorter in length. Before we go in to overly long discussions, stuff like this happens and it is not a part produced by KTM. What I blame KTM for is the same as with the hub, slow response and hope the problem goes away by itself!
2015 Ktm Superduke Service Manuals
They rather risk a few blown engines or potential dangerous situations (in case of the hub) than do a recall. Anyone who is worried by this filter issue should consider one of these. I ordered one and it's under way.
I'll put it in straight away if I buy a 1290 again. They flow more oil too which is a good thing.
Wash and refit is nice too. Replacing it can be done without spilling much oil as tilting the bike on the left hand side will prevent any oil leaking out. Peace of mind! (same manufacturer both made by K&P) Forgive my ignorance, please. The fault is within the filter, because the bypass valve ands its spring, is located in the filter?
Do I understand this correctly? Mebgardner wrote:Forgive my ignorance, please. The fault is within the filter, because the bypass valve ands its spring, is located in the filter? Do I understand this correctly? There is no such thing as a bypass circuit in the LC8 only a oil pressure regulator (spring & piston) it's not in the filter, right next to it.
I believe its whats causing the filters to collapse. My bike is weeping oil from everywhere that it can, and collapsing filters, that leads me to believe the regulator is not doing its job properly. Sully wrote:There is no such thing as a bypass circuit in the LC8 only a oil pressure regulator (spring & piston) it's not in the filter, right next to it. I believe its whats causing the filters to collapse. My bike is weeping oil from everywhere that it can, and collapsing filters, that leads me to believe the regulator is not doing its job properly.
Based on the diagram, the filter's appearance/condition, and what you're implying is that the oil pressure is too high -? If under warranty, again a matter for the dealers. Sully wrote: There is no such thing as a bypass circuit in the LC8 only a oil pressure regulator (spring & piston) it's not in the filter, right next to it. I believe its whats causing the filters to collapse.
My bike is weeping oil from everywhere that it can, and collapsing filters, that leads me to believe the regulator is not doing its job properly. Same thing different name! Some call it bypass valve others pressure regulator. It's a spring loaded piston and opens when the correct oil pressure is reached. It might well be the reason for all the issues with these filters. Ktmguy wrote: Correct!
Same thing different name! Some call it bypass valve others pressure regulator. It's a spring loaded piston and opens when the correct oil pressure is reached. It might well be the reason for all the issues with these filters. Bad part is i have oil coming out of every place it can when the bike is running, if its off, i can wipe it clean and no leaking.
2015 Ktm Superduke 1290r Specs
The minute i start it, it starts weeping oil. Another reason why i think KTMs explanation of a bad batch of filters is crazy. If the filters are weak, then why is the oil weeping everywhere?
I heard that the early LC8 had the opposite problem with low pressure and a recall was done to install a longer spring in the regulator to increase the bypass (system) pressure. Seems strange that the filter would collapse unless it was blocked or to restrictive as you would think the pressure build up would work back from downstream of the pump therefore having no significant pressure drop across the filter? Could it be a flow rate issue where the pump flow rate is greater than what the filters can pass? Sully I assume your bike is back at the dealers and getting these issues sorted.
Edit, Looking at the diagram again the flow rate of both pumps would have to be balanced otherwise the oil tank would either stave or over fill. Lc4 wrote:I heard that the early LC8 had the opposite problem with low pressure and a recall was done to install a longer spring in the regulator to increase the bypass (system) pressure. Seems strange that the filter would collapse unless it was blocked or to restrictive as you would think the pressure build up would work back from downstream of the pump therefore having no significant pressure drop across the filter? Could it be a flow rate issue where the pump flow rate is greater than what the filters can pass? Sully I assume your bike is back at the dealers and getting these issues sorted.
Edit, Looking at the diagram again the flow rate of both pumps would have to be balanced otherwise the oil tank would either stave or over fill. As mentioned the issue hasn't been tested or confirmed yet so any explanation is a guess. Fact is that it's got to do something with either the filter or too high pressure or a combination of the two. It can't be a blockage as to collapse the filter you have to have high pressure on the outside and low on the inside. In regards to the flow rate of the pumps, normally in a dry sump one pump is just a scavenge pump that evacuates the oil out of the sump back to the tank.
If there is no oil it just turns dry for a short moment. (still lubricated by remaining oil) The SD1290 has two of those and one pressure pump to feed the lot I believe. OP Update: My situation went from bad to worse.
I completed the oil change you see in the videos with a HI-FLOW HF158 and road the bike for 25 miles. Bike seamed normal and ran fine. I parked the bike and tipped it slightly to the right and pulled the oil filter to inspect (only a very slight amount of oil loss doing this). The filter looked fine with NO cavitation I re-installed and topped off my oil to the 'A' zone in sight glass (it only needed an ounce or two from what dripped out of the filter area during inspection). Next morning, I hooked up my oil pressure gauge on a 'cold bike' and the started it up.
Seemed to be idling fine, pressure was steady at about 60 psi, needle was very stable and looking good (spec in service manual is between 29-70 psi). 'pop' sounded mechanical not exhaust. One thing to note, after the incident the oil level never came back up to the the 'A' zone in the sight glass.
It's trapped somewhere else in the system apparently. Video: (note the smoke you see is just a little oil burning off of the exhaust under the filter area, there were no leaks). Dbroaddu wrote:OP Update: My situation went from bad to worse. I completed the oil change you see in the videos with a HI-FLOW HF158 and road the bike for 25 miles. Bike seamed normal and ran fine. I parked the bike and tipped it slightly to the right and pulled the oil filter to inspect (only a very slight amount of oil loss doing this).
The filter looked fine with NO cavitation I re-installed and topped off my oil to the 'A' zone in sight glass (it only needed an ounce or two from what dripped out of the filter area during inspection). Next morning, I hooked up my oil pressure gauge on a 'cold bike' and the started it up. Seemed to be idling fine, pressure was steady at about 60 psi, needle was very stable and looking good (spec in service manual is between 29-70 psi). 'pop' sounded mechanical not exhaust. One thing to note, after the incident the oil level never came back up to the the 'A' zone in the sight glass.
It's trapped somewhere else in the system apparently. Video: (note the smoke you see is just a little oil burning off of the exhaust under the filter area, there were no leaks) New Update: Dealer called today, said that bike started right up and idled great. They put the stethoscopes on the chain towers and it sounded perfect, let it warm up to 150 deg and detected nothing amiss. Shut the bike down and the oil drained back to the tank as it should.
No one knows yet why the bike suddenly popped and died on the table. The dealer said that they did however, escalate the issue of the crushed filter to KTM North America. KTM NA said that they want the dealer to test the oil pressure regulator valve, and let them know the results.
I'll let you all know when I find out the results as well. Lc4 wrote:I heard that the early LC8 had the opposite problem with low pressure and a recall was done to install a longer spring in the regulator to increase the bypass (system) pressure. Seems strange that the filter would collapse unless it was blocked or to restrictive as you would think the pressure build up would work back from downstream of the pump therefore having no significant pressure drop across the filter? Could it be a flow rate issue where the pump flow rate is greater than what the filters can pass? Sully I assume your bike is back at the dealers and getting these issues sorted. Edit, Looking at the diagram again the flow rate of both pumps would have to be balanced otherwise the oil tank would either stave or over fill. My bike is not at the dealer, i did the oil change myself, i found the collapsed filter.
Changed the oil and filter, then put 100 miles on the bike. I checked the new filter and it looked fine. My motor sounds fine, Im calling the dealer now to see if they will check it out, as it still leaks oil as soon as i start the bike. Dbroaddu wrote:OP Update: My situation went from bad to worse.
I completed the oil change you see in the videos with a HI-FLOW HF158 and road the bike for 25 miles. Bike seamed normal and ran fine. I parked the bike and tipped it slightly to the right and pulled the oil filter to inspect (only a very slight amount of oil loss doing this). The filter looked fine with NO cavitation I re-installed and topped off my oil to the 'A' zone in sight glass (it only needed an ounce or two from what dripped out of the filter area during inspection). Next morning, I hooked up my oil pressure gauge on a 'cold bike' and the started it up. Seemed to be idling fine, pressure was steady at about 60 psi, needle was very stable and looking good (spec in service manual is between 29-70 psi).
'pop' sounded mechanical not exhaust. One thing to note, after the incident the oil level never came back up to the the 'A' zone in the sight glass.
It's trapped somewhere else in the system apparently. Video: (note the smoke you see is just a little oil burning off of the exhaust under the filter area, there were no leaks) The POP might actually be the piston of the pressure regulator freeing itself and all might be good now. Did the engine actually died when that happened?
Driftkr6l wrote:I bought a new filter and oil and want to do an oil change just so I can take a look at the oil filter. I ordered a K&N filter and noticed its made in China! Are you guys using K&N filters?
Yes, used several in the dirt bikes. Never had any problems. Doesn't mean it says 'made in China' that it is bad. It ll depends on the specs and the quality control.
Don't think K&N wants to put their name on an inferior product. Reminds me of a Chinese factory I used to get T-shirts from. They worked exactly to my spec with quality cotton and decent stitching.
Had some that lasted 10 years. They also had a very shitty product, which I questioned them about. The manager told me that it was made specially for a big well known company that wanted a product as cheap as possible regardless of the quality. Bluetrees wrote:In the US we have the NHTSA, U.S. DOT's National Highway Traffic Safety Administration.
You can file a complaint that may initiate a recall. From that site, Why your complaint is important Your complaint information will be entered into NHTSA-ODI's vehicle owner's complaint database and used with other complaints to determine if a safety-related defect trend exists. If a safety-related defect exists in a motor vehicle or item of motor vehicle equipment, the manufacturer must provide a remedy at no cost to the owner. Your complaint is the first step in the process. We do not have to receive a specific number of complaints before we look into a problem. We gather all available information on a problem. Your complaint is important to us.
I went to the site this morning and there were two complaints filed on the 2014 Adventure, one being rear brake the other airbox. No complaints filed for oil filter. There wasn't a single complaint for the 2014-15 SDR, oil filter, rear hub, nothing.
I would encourage anyone in the US with the oil filter issue or any other issue to file a complaint. If the NHTSA deems it systemic they may force a recall by KTM Check that site out.
Update, the Op has filed a complaint. Perhaps this would start the ball rolling? In my opinion loss of engine lubricating is arguably a safety issue. Reading what I posted earlier direct from the NHTSA website, 'Your complaint information will be entered into NHTSA-ODI's vehicle owner's complaint database and used with other complaints to determine if a safety-related defect trend exists.' There is no guarantee of forcing a recall but if owners report these instances something may come of it. The underlying consensus in this forum is that KTM doesn't own up to issues be it oil filter or rear hub, etc. I'm implying that maybe, just maybe if enough consumers report this stuff KTM will have to acknowledge.
2015 Ktm Duke 390
THE SERVICE REPAIR MANUALS LISTED BELOW ARE FREE TO DOWNLOAD. USERS/OWNERS MANUALS:. l. Latest KTM Owners Manual can be found at SPARE PARTS MANUALS:. KTM WP SUSPENSION MANUALS:. 2007.
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