La115 John Deere Service Manual
NEED HELP FINDING PARTS? CALL US AT (855) 669-7278 John Deere 115 Lawn Tractor Parts for 42 Mower Deck Quick Reference Guide. Click the part number below to view and order John Deere 115 Lawn Tractor Parts for 42 Mower Deck, or search illustrated diagrams to determine the part you need. Tune-up for John Deere 115 Lawn Tractor Parts for 42 Mower Deck Part Number Description Add To Cart Home Maintenance Kit Spark Plugs Battery Engine Oil Capacity Blades for John Deere 115 Lawn Tractor Parts for 42 Mower Deck Part Number Description Qty. Add To Cart Standard Mower Blade 2 Blade Kit 1 Bagging/Mulching Mower Blade 2 Belts for John Deere 115 Lawn Tractor Parts for 42 Mower Deck Part Number Description Qty. Add To Cart Traction Drive Belt, Transmission Belt 1 42″ Mower Drive Belt 1 42″ Snowblower Belt 1 42″ Snowblower Drive Belt 1 Filters for John Deere 115 Lawn Tractor Parts for 42 Mower Deck Part Number Description Qty. Add To Cart Air Filter 1 Fuel Filter 1 Engine Oil Filter 1.
John Deere 115 Lawn Tractor Parts Order John Deere Lawn Tractor Parts Online. Same Day & Flat Rate Shipping! A Complete Listing Of All John Deere Lawn Tractor Parts Is Available Using Illustrated Diagrams This quick parts reference guide will provide you with the most common John Deere 115 Lawn Tractor Parts for 42 Mower Deck. These John Deere Lawn Tractor Parts may include: Tune Up Kit, Spark Plug, Mower Blades, Traction Drive Belt, Transmission Belt, Mower Drive Belt, Batery, and Air Filters. If you need help finding John Deere Lawn Tractor Parts to view an illustrated diagram or call us at 1-855-669-7278. Visit our l to view How To, Do It Yourself Repair, and Buyer Guide Videos.
We have video’s to help you replace your John Deere 115 Lawn Tractor Parts for 42 Mower Deck including: a spark plug, a blade, an air filter, an oil filter, a belts, a battery, lubricate drive system, lubricated cables, and more. Post navigation.
Hi hope I chose correct slot to post this. Now sharing with my son his 2010 LA115 42 in unit with 19.5 HP B&S engine. I volunteered to maintenance it up for the loan. No Owner's Manual & JD wants 20 bucks for a copy, 30 for a CD. Oh yeah, I am a cheapskate.
Any online source for a free download. Seems every other piece of gear I have I can do this. If not anyone know what engine oil weight & quantity? Got the B&S oil filter already. Also what tire pressures F&R does it like?
Anyone know what model transmission this has. His property is almost dead flat so in good shape: seems to pull nice. (I am about to do the K46 rebuild that was posted on this site on my L130, 2002 vintage so that's why I'm doing the borrow & fix routine. Thanks for your help here. Operator's Manuals are available on deere.com in an interactive format (index on the left, pages on the right), not a PDF file. Go here, and then search for your model, and then also choose the correct serial number range: Technical Manuals are the bible for all kinds of intense repairs. The Operator's Manual is enough for routine maintenance info.
TM's are available on paper or PDF, but you have to buy either one. You can try Google, but Deere cracked down on a lot of sites that hosted bootleg copies of their PDF files. Oil is 1.5 quarts with the filter change. They recommend their own 'Turf-Gard' oil, which is 10W-30.
Tire pressure should be 14 psi front / 10 psi rear. As for the trans, it's a T40. The K46 was used in the higher LA models. Sad when a k46 is considered an upgrade.
I service a lot of L and LA models and luckily few have any trans issues but it is pretty flat around here. JD recommendeds their 10w-30 because I don't think they sell a straight HD30.
Briggs specs 30 but says 10w-30 may be used as substitute but increased oil consumption may occur. You may find newer manuals that don't say the increased oil part and you will find references or charts showing their 5w-30 synthetic for all temps because they would rather you buy their brand more expensive synthetic! Nothing new about these ohv engines that now makes 10w-30 completely as good as HD30. Just marketing and them pushing the narrative they want to tell. I put HD30 in everything but Hondas(and that's really no big deal if you don't) and kohler commands. These both get 10w-30 because they really do specify it.
About everything else is best on HD30. But hey 15w-40 would work just great too. Very few people will ever wear out an engine or ever notice a reduction of life that would be due to the type or weight or even lack of oil changes. Not having enough oil is the fastest way to make one not worth repairing. Most engines are replaced or junked with the machine due to a needed machine or engine repair - not because they had 1000s of hours and are worn out. The needed repair is almost never (just because I don't want to say never) due to oil weight/type/dirtiest.
John Deere La115 Manual Pdf
I would say more damage is done by gas diluting the oil and that rarely kills and engine. Sad when a k46 is considered an upgrade. I service a lot of L and LA models and luckily few have any trans issues but it is pretty flat around here. JD recommendeds their 10w-30 because I don't think they gave a straight HD30. Briggs specs 30 but says 10w-30 may be used as substitute but increased oil consumption may occur. You may find newer manuals that don't say the increased oil part and you will find references or charts showing their 5w-30 synthetic for all temps because they would rather you buy their brand more expensive synthetic! Nothing new about these ohv engines that now makes 10w-30 completely as good as HD30.
Just marketing and them pushing the narrative they want to tell. I put HD30 in everything but Hondas(and that's really no big deal if you don't) and kohler commands. These both get 10w-30 because they really do specify it. About everything else is best on HD30. But hey 15w-40 would work just great too.
Very few people will ever wear out an engine or ever notice a reduction of life that would be due to the type or weight or even lack of oil changes. Not having enough oil is the fastest way to make one not worth repairing. Most engines are replaced or junked with the machine due to a needed machine or engine repair - not because they had 1000s of hours and are worn out. The needed repair is almost never (just because I don't want to say never) due to oil weight/type/dirtiest. I would say more damage is done by gas diluting the oil and that rarely kills and engine.
Oh, I never buy briggs or kohler oil filters. Too overpriced. They are probably made by champion labs anyway. I use Wix 51348.
Slightly longer than briggs longer black filter but they have fit fine in all but one machine IIRC. I won't even put Fram orange on a mower but others use the Fram numbering so 3614 is Fram numbering. Wix also commonly has 2 other lengths. Sad when a k46 is considered an upgrade.
I service a lot of L and LA models and luckily few have any trans issues but it is pretty flat around here. JD recommendeds their 10w-30 because I don't think they gave a straight HD30. Briggs specs 30 but says 10w-30 may be used as substitute but increased oil consumption may occur. You may find newer manuals that don't say the increased oil part and you will find references or charts showing their 5w-30 synthetic for all temps because they would rather you buy their brand more expensive synthetic!
Nothing new about these ohv engines that now makes 10w-30 completely as good as HD30. Just marketing and them pushing the narrative they want to tell. I put HD30 in everything but Hondas(and that's really no big deal if you don't) and kohler commands. These both get 10w-30 because they really do specify it.
About everything else is best on HD30. But hey 15w-40 would work just great too. Very few people will ever wear out an engine or ever notice a reduction of life that would be due to the type or weight or even lack of oil changes. Not having enough oil is the fastest way to make one not worth repairing. Most engines are replaced or junked with the machine due to a needed machine or engine repair - not because they had 1000s of hours and are worn out. The needed repair is almost never (just because I don't want to say never) due to oil weight/type/dirtiest. I would say more damage is done by gas diluting the oil and that rarely kills and engine.
Oh, I never buy briggs or kohler oil filters. Too overpriced.
They are probably made by champion labs anyway. I use Wix 51348. Slightly longer than briggs longer black filter but they have fit fine in all but one machine IIRC. I won't even put Fram orange on a mower but others use the Fram numbering so 3614 is Fram numbering. Wix also commonly has 2 other lengths.
Thanks TobyU & Bill & others. I can run with that. Deere's website seemed to want $$$$USD$$$ type compensation but I will rechaeck that & other links you folk gaveme. Thanks all, now onto work! Operator's Manuals are available on deere.com in an interactive format (index on the left, pages on the right), not a PDF file.
Go here, and then search for your model, and then also choose the correct serial number range: Technical Manuals are the bible for all kinds of intense repairs. The Operator's Manual is enough for routine maintenance info. TM's are available on paper or PDF, but you have to buy either one.
You can try Google, but Deere cracked down on a lot of sites that hosted bootleg copies of their PDF files. Oil is 1.5 quarts with the filter change.
They recommend their own 'Turf-Gard' oil, which is 10W-30. Tire pressure should be 14 psi front / 10 psi rear. As for the trans, it's a T40. The K46 was used in the higher LA models.Thanks greenmachine, great help in your reply!!!